Cholistan
Farther east, the Rohi, or Cholistan, is a barren desert tract, bounded on the north and west by the Hakra depression with ruins of old settlements along its high banks; it is still inhabited by nomads. It is at a distance of 30 km. from Bahawalpur. The word 'Cholistan' is derived from the word 'cholna' which means moving.
It covers an area of about 16,000 square km and extends into the Thar Desert of India. The region was once watered by the Hakra River, known as the Saravati in vedic times.
At one time there were 400 forts in the area and archaeological finds around the Darawar Fort, the only place with a perennial waterhole.
The average annual rainfall is only 12 cm, and the little cultivation is made possible by underground wells, drawn up by the camels. The water is stored in troughs, built by the tribes, between sandhills and din waterholes called tobas.
The forts here were built at 29 km intervals, which probably served as guard posts for the camel caravan routes. There were three rows of these forts. the first line of forts began from Phulra and ended in Lera, the second from Rukhanpur to Islamgarh, and the third from Bilcaner to Kapoo. They are all in ruins now, and you can see that they were built with double walls of gypsum blocks and mud. Some of them date back to 1000 BC, and were destroyed and rebuilt many times. Cholistan also boasts of many old forts such as Derawar,Vingrot, Banwar, Marcot, Wilhar, Maujgharh, Mao, Phuira and Din-gharh etc.
Derawar Mosque
Also worth visiting is the Derawar Mosque, which is 100 years old and is built with white marble stone. The Derawar mosque of marble is a thing of beauty, an exact replica of the Moti Masjid of the Red Fort of Delhi.
Noor Mahal
A beautiful palace built like a Italian chateau on neoclassical lines, strangely at a time when modernism had set in. Built in 1872, there are diverse stories doing the rounds regarding its construction. According to one belief, Nawab Sadiq Muhammad Khan IV had the palace made for his wife. However, she was there for one night, only as she happened to see the adjoining graveyard from her balcony, and refused to spend another night there. As the story goes, it remained unused during his reign. The Noor Mahal located in Cantt and in the jurisdiction of Pakistan Army.
Channan Pir
From Bahawalpur at a distance of 1 hour drive is Channan Pir in Cholistan desert. Channan Pir is a shrine of a Muslim saint, which lies in the desert between Derawar and Din Gargh Forts.
Burial Ground
Another interesting place worth visiting here is the Nawab Family burial ground where many of the old Nawabs and their families are buried. The tomb here is attractive, built with marble and decorated with blue glazed style.
Uch Sharif
Uch Sharif, 75 km from Bahawalpur is a very old town. It is believed that it came into existence way back in 500 BC. Some historians believe that Uch was there even before the advent of Bikramajit when Jains and Buddhist ruled over the sub-continent. At the time of the invasion by Alexander the Great, Uch was under Hindu rule.
The surviving shrines, sanctuaries, cemeteries, and mausoleums, including the Bibi Jawandi tomb, incorporate glazed tile and brick revetments, lime plaster panels, terra-cotta embellishments, brick structural walls laid in earth mortars, and ingenious corner tower buttresses. The famous shrines existing at Uch include those of Hazrat Bahawal Haleem, Hazrat Jalaluddin Surkh Bukhari, Makhdoom Jahanian Jahangasht, Shaikh Saifuddin Ghazrooni and Bibi Jawanadi. The shrine of Bibi Jawandi is a Central Asian design, titled in the blue and white faience.
Uch is a small town today and divided into three different quarters known as:
(i) Uch Bukhari, after Hazrat Syed Jalaluddin Bukhari Surkhposh
(ii) Uch Jilani, after the name of Hazrat Shaikh Mohammad Ghaus Qadri Jilani (Bandagi), who came from Halab in 887 AH
(iii) Uch Mughlan after the Mughal rulers.
Mosque at Bhong
Bhong Mosque is in the Rahim Yar Khan district and is about 200 km from Bahawalpur. This mosque was built by Rais Ghazi, a local landlord of Bhong. Gold leaves have been used for the intricate decorative work in the mosque which has made it famous. It is a site worth visiting for its beauty and the stylish calligraphic work.
Lal Suhanra National Park
This park is ideal for recreation, education or research but shooting is forbidden. This park, 36 km to the east of Bahawalpur is a combination of a natural lake and forest. It covers an area of 77,480 acres of land and is spread over on both sides of Bahawalpur canal. It has watch-towers, catching ground, tourist huts, rest house, camping grounds, TDCP Resort and treks for the visitors and lovers of nature. Hog deer, ravine deer, black buck and nilgai are common. Fox, jackals, hares, porcupines, mongoose, larks, owls and hawks are also found. Wild boars are in large number in the forest areas.
Sadiq Garh Palace
In Ahmadpur East is situated another palace called Sadiq Garh Palace. It is in the use of the ex-royal family's descendants. This palace can be termed as the prettiest of the other palaces and is embellished with most delicate and intricate paintings. It displays chandeliers and a collection of carpets, coming from all over the world, apart from armaments of European and Asian make and a number of other gifts that must have been showered on the ex-royal family of Bahawalpur from time to time.
Dera Nawab Sahib
The palaces of the Amirs are located mainly in Dera Nawab Saheb at a distance of 22 miles from Bahawalpur; while, Derawar was the ancestral seat of the rulers of Bahawalpur. It is the gateway to Cholistan, which comprises 1,000 square miles.
Panjnad Head Works
Panjnad is located 12 km. away from Uch Sharif where all the five rivers of Punjab meet. It is a nice picnic spot with scenic beauty.
Forts
The old fort of Munde Shahid, 50 km. from Bahawalpur and Marot Fort are considered to be antiquities. A place outside the Marot Fort is known as 'Baithuk Maula Ali'. The tomb of 'Naugaza' is located in the Munde Shahid Fort.
Islam Garh Fort
Islam Garh ,the old Bhinwar Fort, was built by Rawal Bhim Singh in Samabat in 1665, as the following inscription on its gate in Babri character proves "Samabat 1665 Asuj Wadi 2, Maharaj Rawal Siri Bhim Singh ji Maharaj". The Fort is situated in the Cholistan area of Tehsil Khanpur. It is 46 kilometers south east of Baghla Fort. The fort is in a dilapidated state.
Mau Bubarik Fort
According to Tarikh-e-Murad, a fort was built by Raj Hans Karar in Mau Mubarik as a residence for his mother, hence the name Mau refers to mother in local language. The fort was taken by Shah Arghun in 1525 A.D. It was one of the six fortresses of Raj Sahasi 11. It had 20 bastions and Towers. The ramparts were about 549 meters in circumference and the walls very strongly and thickly built. Here the shrine of a saint Sheikh Hakim is of great importance.
Some Shrines
Other shrines of Bahawalpur region are that of
- Khawaja Noor Muhammad known as Qibla-e-Alam at Chistian
- Shrine of another saint at Chachran
- Shrine of Hazrat Mohkam Din known as 'Sahib-us-Sair' (great traveler) at Khanqah Sharif, 20 km. from Bahawalpur.
Pattan Minara
8 km. east of Rahim Yar Khan railway station is an extensive site of ruins known as 'Pattan Minara'. There is a tower in the center of four smaller towers at this place, which are believed to have been a Buddhist Monastery.
The ruins of Pattan Minara are located at a distance of about 8 kilometers in east south of Rahim Yar Khan city. It has variously been described as the remains of Asahoka period, who built it in 250 B.C. or a Buddhist monastery. Nearby the minar, remains of a fort, a mosque and some tunnels are also visible. About 110 years ago Colonel Minchin a political agent of Ex-Bahawalpur state started the excavation of these tunnels but discontiued digging for some reasons or other. According to Colonel Toy it was the capital of the Hindu kingdom in 10 A.D. In the mid of the 18th century A.D. Fazal Elahi Khan Halani a Daupauta chief destroyed it and used its materials in the construction of Baghla and Dingar Fort.
Bhutta Wahan
It is 15 km. from Rahim Yar Khan. It is believed to be the birthplace of 'Sassi', one of the legendary lovers. Also it is believd to be the birthplace of 'Abu-ul-Fazal and Faizi', the sons of Mullah Mubarak and famous courtiers of Akbar the Great. But nobody knows the exact history of this place precisely.
Bhawalpur Museum
Bahawalpur has a modest museum with a fine collection of coins, medals, postage stamps of former state of Bahawalpur, manuscripts, documents, inscriptions, wood carvings, camel skin paintings, historical models and stone carvings etc. of Islamic and pre-Islamic period. There is a complete set of models of all classes issued by the ex state to its military officers civilians and to other important citizens of the ex state.
Zoological Garden
The zoological garden of Bahawalpur is considered to be one of the best in the country. Spread over an area of 25acres of land, it has an interesting collection of 120 animals and 750 birds of tropical areas, particularly those found in this region. The zoo has the distinction of occasional breeding of lions and supply of beasts to other zoos in the country. It also has a aquarium and zoological museum with stuffed rare birds and animals.
Dring Stadium
Bahawalpur has one of the finest stadiums in the country having fine cricket grounds, two football grounds one basket ball court and lawn tennis courts and covered swimming pool. There is also a hockey stadium, which is considered to be the second best in the country after Karachi Stadium. It can accommodate 13000 people at a time.
Shrine of Muluk Shah
The shrine of Muluk Shah, a popular saint of his time, is located in the city and visited by devotees on every Thursday ashura and Eid days. A small fair is also held annually.
Jamia Masjid Al Sadiq
It was made by the Nawab Sadiq Mohammad Khan Abbasi V at the elevation of more than 12ft from earth. It can house 50,000 to 60,000 people at a time, during the Eid festivals. It is well-reputed mosque in Pakistan like other prominent mosques of Pakistan.
